Shrines, Temples & Pilgrimage

Stupas, home shrines, the four great pilgrimage sites, temple etiquette, and how to read Buddhist art — the material side of the tradition.

The archaeological record of Indian Buddhism is almost entirely about this: stupas, relics, donations, and pilgrimage. Meditation left no trace; a thousand years of people building, endowing, circumambulating, and travelling left a great deal.

Modern presentations tend to treat the material side of Buddhism as cultural packaging around a portable core of practice. The historical record suggests the opposite emphasis: for most Buddhists in most periods, this was the practice.

The stupa #

The oldest and most characteristic Buddhist structure.

A stupa is a reliquary mound. Its origin is the division of the Buddha’s remains after his cremation into eight portions, each enshrined under a mound — and, in the tradition, Ashoka’s later redistribution of them into 84,000.

Its form is symbolic and became elaborately codified: the square base as the earth element, the dome as water, the spire as fire, the parasol as air, and the pinnacle as space. It is also read as the Buddha’s body, seated.

The characteristic practice is pradakshina, circumambulation — walking clockwise around the structure, keeping it to one’s right. It is done at stupas, temples, sacred mountains, and around the Mahabodhi temple at Bodh Gaya, and it is probably the single most widely performed Buddhist ritual act.

The form travelled and transformed: into the pagoda in China and Japan, the chedi in Thailand, the chorten in Tibet, and the dagoba in Sri Lanka.

Temples #

What a Buddhist temple contains varies by tradition, and a visitor will generally find some combination of: a main hall with a principal image; subsidiary shrines to bodhisattvas or protectors; a stupa or relic structure; monastic quarters; a hall for teaching; and, in East Asia, memorial tablets for the dead.

Offerings are typically simple and symbolic — candles or lamps for wisdom dispelling darkness, incense for the fragrance of virtue, flowers for impermanence since they fade, water, food, and in Tibetan practice a set of seven or eight bowls.

Prostration is common in Tibetan and East Asian practice and less so in Theravada, where bowing from a seated position is more usual.

Basic etiquette for a visitor: remove shoes and hats, dress modestly with shoulders and knees covered, do not point the feet at images or monastics, walk clockwise, ask before photographing, and follow whatever others are doing. Nobody expects a visitor to know the forms.

Pilgrimage #

The Buddha himself recommended it, naming four places a devout person should visit with reverence: where he was born, where he awakened, where he set the wheel of Dharma turning, and where he attained final nibbana.

Those are Lumbini, Bodh Gaya, Sarnath, and Kushinagar, and they remain the core circuit. See The Four Great Pilgrimage Sites.

Beyond them, the Buddhist world has a dense network of pilgrimage destinations: the four sacred mountains of China, the Shikoku eighty-eight temple circuit in Japan, Mount Kailash, Adam’s Peak in Sri Lanka, Boudhanath in Kathmandu, and hundreds of local sites.

Home practice #

Most practitioners’ primary ritual space is domestic. A home shrine can be a shelf with an image, a candle, and a bowl of water, and it does the same work as a temple: it marks a space, it creates a place to bow, and it makes the practice visible in the room.

Reading the images #

Buddhist art is a system with a grammar. The hand positions (mudras) are specific, the postures are specific, the attributes carried by each figure identify it, and the same conventions hold across a remarkably wide geographic range.

Knowing perhaps a dozen conventions makes a temple legible. See Buddhist Art and Symbols.

Why the material side matters #

It is worth pausing on a fact that modern presentations tend to skip.

If you reconstruct Indian Buddhism from its texts, you get a religion of meditation, analysis, and liberation. If you reconstruct it from what survives in the ground, you get something else: thousands of donative inscriptions recording who paid for which railing pillar; stupas built and enlarged over centuries; relic deposits; pilgrimage routes; and monasteries positioned on trade roads.

Gregory Schopen’s work made this impossible to ignore. The epigraphic record from Sanchi, Bharhut, and Amaravati is overwhelmingly about donation and merit, frequently dedicated to deceased parents, and it includes a great many gifts from monks and nuns — who, on a strict textual reading, should not have had property to give.

Meditation is nearly invisible in that record. This is not evidence that nobody meditated; it is evidence that for most participants most of the time, Buddhist practice meant building, giving, visiting, and circumambulating.

A modernist reading treats all of this as cultural accretion around a portable core of practice. The historical record suggests the emphasis should run the other way.

Offerings and what they mean #

The standard offerings are cheap by design, and each has a stated meaning.

Water — the most common, and pointedly the most available. The traditional reasoning is that water costs nothing, so offering it cannot be spoiled by attachment or by the wish to impress. Tibetan practice sets out seven or eight bowls, filled each morning and emptied each evening.

Light — a lamp or candle, for wisdom dispelling the darkness of ignorance.

Incense — for the fragrance of ethical conduct, which the texts say spreads in every direction, unlike physical scents which travel only downwind.

Flowers — for impermanence. They are offered in order to fade, and leaving them long enough to do so is the practice.

Food — fruit, rice, or a portion of one’s own meal.

Sound — bells, and in Tibetan practice the full set of music offerings.

None of it is consumed by anyone. The Buddha does not eat the fruit. The practice is generosity, performed daily, at negligible cost, directed at something that gives nothing back — which is precisely what makes it training rather than exchange.

Circumambulation #

Pradakshina — walking clockwise around a sacred object, keeping it on one’s right — is probably the single most widely performed Buddhist ritual act, and it is done at stupas, temples, images, sacred mountains, and Bodh Gaya.

The direction is not arbitrary: the right side is the respectful one across Indian culture, and the same convention governs how one hands things to a monastic. Bon practitioners circumambulate counter-clockwise, which is one of the clearest visible markers distinguishing them.

The practice scales. Pilgrims circumambulate Mount Kailash over several days; devotees circle a stupa a few times before leaving; and in the most demanding form the circuit is made in full-body prostrations, measuring the distance with one’s own length.

Visiting a temple #

For a reader who has never been, the practical shape of a visit:

Before entering — remove shoes, and hats. Dress with shoulders and knees covered; some temples provide wraps.

Inside — walk clockwise. Do not point your feet at images or at monastics, which means sitting cross-legged or with legs folded to the side rather than stretched out. Lower your head when passing in front of someone who is bowing.

Offerings — candles, incense, and flowers are usually available; there is normally a donation box. Nothing obliges a visitor to make one.

Photography — ask. Many temples permit it in the grounds and not in shrine halls, and photographing people at practice without permission is poor form everywhere.

Monastics — in Theravada countries, women do not hand objects directly to monks; the object is placed down or passed via a cloth. This is a Vinaya rule about the monk rather than a judgement about the woman.

If you do not know what to do, watch and follow, or ask. Nobody expects a visitor to know the forms, and in practice people are pleased to be asked.

Sources & further reading #

Gregory Schopen, Bones, Stones, and Buddhist Monks (University of Hawai’i Press, 1997) — on what the archaeological record actually shows. John S. Strong, Relics of the Buddha (Princeton, 2004). Robert Beer, The Encyclopedia of Tibetan Symbols and Motifs (Serindia, 1999). Adrian Snodgrass, The Symbolism of the Stupa (Cornell, 1985). Toni Huber, The Holy Land Reborn: Pilgrimage and the Tibetan Reinvention of Buddhist India (University of Chicago Press, 2008).

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